Asunción has become (unexpectedly) a center of interest for a specific group of Slovaks and Czechs who suddenly started traveling there in droves to obtain permanent residency. While Asunción will probably never be the most sought-after tourist resort in South America, there is plenty to try there. I’ve compiled handy tips into this article – please feel free to add to them. 🙂
As for Paraguay itself, this article is excellent and covers everything you need, plus lots of practical tips: www.czickontheroad.cz/jak-vypada-paraguay-zajimavosti. The article is in Czech, but www.deepl.com will translate it into any language later.
What to expect from Asunción (for those going first time)
As for the capital city of Paraguay, Asuncion, somehow the stress and chaos of other South American capitals has been forgotten. Asuncion looks more like a pleasant suburb where you can hear the birds chirping in the morning than the country’s capital.
Of course, it also depends on where you are in Asuncion. We stayed in Villa Morra (Hotel Five), a wealthy residential neighborhood with restaurants, cafés, and designer shops. Most of the buildings are low, 2—to 3-story houses. The roads here are one-way, and on Saturdays and Sundays, there is barely a car on the road.
Those staying in the historic centre around the Catedral or Encarnation districts, for example, will have a different experience. There, you’ll find historic colonial buildings and more hustle and bustle, people, and dirt (and some good cafés and restaurants).
Asunción has a total of 70 neighborhoods. Some are affluent, residential and safe, others are not.
Poor barrios/neighborhoods in Asuncion
Among the most dangerous in Asuncion, especially after dark, are:
- La Chacarita – goo.gl/maps/Yu3SZsa19cCXfGLLA
- Tablada Nueva – goo.gl/maps/Q8LvVgMEYqDrjNnAA and also all the marshes around
- Bañado – both Sur and Norte (flooding is frequent) – goo.gl/maps/yC9Eq6zpnfhspDaQ
To give you an idea of what I mean by bad barrios:
Bañado Sur:
La Chacarita:
Downtown (places around the Presidential Palace and Congress), people on the forums are also called “shady” after dark, so you must be extra careful there.
Here is more info on the poorer neighbourhoods, which are not, in principle, dangerous: https://www.quora.com/What-are-the-good-and-bad-neighborhoods-of-Asuncion-Paraguay
An overview of the less safe neighborhoods in Asuncion is summarized on this map:
In principle, however, Asuncion does not have neighborhoods as dangerous as Bogotá in Colombia, Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, or other South American cities. However, some neighborhoods in Asuncion are dangerous for European (and especially Slovak and Czech) proportions.
Safe, affluent residential neighborhoods in Asuncion
- Ykua Satĩ
- Las Lomas
- Carmelitas
- Villa Morra (here is also Hotel Five, where most of us will find a temporary home, at least for the first few days)
- Recoleta
- San Cristóbal
- Mariscal Lopez—especially the northern part and the south of Jara—is the part of Asuncion where the most expensive plots are sold, and there are luxury residential villas.
A special tip for a nice, colorful neighborhood to spend an afternoon in is Loma San Jerónimo. It’s a mini neighbourhood with a few streets where you can find colourful stairs and also nice murals (graffiti).
It’s hard to tell the people of Asunción from the Europeans.
In Asunción (and in Paraguay in general), the majority of the population is white and indistinguishable from Spaniards, Germans, or other European nationalities. The reason for this is the Paraguayan war in the years 1864 to 1870 between Paraguay and the Triple Alliance (Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay), in which it is estimated that up to 69% of the Paraguayan population, mainly men, died. These were then ‘imported’ from Europe or the then Ottoman Empire.
As a side effect of the war, Paraguayan women became heads of families, left the household (which they had since lost), and became involved in public affairs.
Polygamy was also publicly recommended after the war – each man was advised to have several wives to bear his children. There are records that even Catholic priests were polygamous (e.g. Fernando Lugo, who was at one time President of the country. He conceived one child with a 16 year old girl, and one was conceived after rape, according to the mother’s testimony.)
There are some interesting articles about this topic:
- NY Times article from 1990 on women in Paraguay: www.mujeresyfronteras.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Ganson-1990-Following-Their-Children-into-Battle_ART%C3%8DCULO.pdf
- The Paraguayan War: www.wikiwand.com/en/Paraguayan_War
- Article on polygamy and Fernando Lugo (must pay/have subscription): www.economist.com/christmas-specials/2012/12/22/the-never-ending-war
Experts believe the Paraguayan War and Brazil’s subsequent domination until 1876 (or almost 100 years) resulted from the stagnation of Paraguay’s development and reflect what we see in Paraguay today.
Spanish vs. English in Asunción
The locals’ English is so good that even I, who don’t speak Spanish, spoke Spanish in Asunción because it was easier. Asunción will be your perfect crash course in Spanish. If you talk to ZERO Spanish, get DeepL to translate text and possibly Google Translate to translate voice or restaurant menus.
By the way, in Asunción, there is a lot of communication via WhatsApp and Instagram. You can deal with restaurant reservations, spa bookings, massages, and other services this way. We used Deepl extensively to communicate on WhatsApp.
Restaurants in Asunción
I gathered tips for good restaurants and coffee places in Asuncion. It’s essential to understand that lunch is served until 2 pm-3 pm, and dinners start at 7 pm (sometimes 8 pm). With jetlag after arriving from Europe, I was always hungry when no restaurant was open. I solved this by stocking up on light snacks in the room.
Tierra Colorada is a restaurant that, in the past, received a Michelin star. The cooking and service are excellent, while the prices are minimal for such quality (the bill for two counts about 40€ – 50€). It’s one of the most expensive and luxurious restaurants in Asunción; people tend to dress up. On the other hand, my pink rubber flip-flops didn’t bother anyone. A good tip will solve that. 🙂 In the evening, you need reservations, ideally 1-2 days in advance; you do not need a reservation for lunch. To book a place, text via WhatsApp at +595 991 425533.
Alma Cocina is also a perfect restaurant—very nice, in a large garden. Its advantage for jet-leggers is that it opens at six o’clock.
HIPPIE CHIC SOUL FOOD – such a hipster place, as the name suggests. We haven’t eaten there, but it looks good and has good reviews.
Zulu Rooftop is kind of a posh rooftop, but it has very nice seating, a view, and food, too. You need to book in advance via their website, especially for later in the evening.
Il Capo – I haven’t tried it personally, but there’s much information going around that they cook well.
La Cabrera is one of the best-rated restaurants in town. I haven’t been there in person, but the references are excellent. Ideal need a reservation.
1688 Resto – This looks like an excellent Italian restaurant with good drinks.
Su – Korean restaurant, supposedly good. 🙂
Sushi Koi: Besides sushi, you can chat about crypto here. They already know the Slovaks who came here for permanent residence.
Trattoria Tony is an Italian restaurant that is very well rated.
Bolsi is a restaurant in the historic centre that serves mainly Paraguayan dishes.
Taberna Espanola is also in the centre, in a Spanish restaurant.
Cafés in Asunción
Asunción is not a hipster coffee mecca like Medellín, Colombia. Paraguay grows some coffee, but it lacks both altitude and coffee culture. The locals drink sweetened coffee with sweet whipped cream called malteada. If you have it with a sweet medialuna croissant and repeat it 1 week in a row, your diabetes is taken care of. 🙂
I’m a fan of filter coffee, but I’ll settle for a good cappuccino. Fortunately, Asunción has a few cafés that meet the standards of Bratislava, Brno, and Prague. If you’ve found other good cafés, please let me know!
Kaffetario is an excellent café. From my experience, it is mainly for filter coffee. The great thing is that you can also order from them with delivery through this service: www.pedidosya.com.py/restaurantes/asuncion/kaffetario-menu
Café Consulado and Kaffetario are my two favorite cafés. They also serve filter coffee, cappuccino, breakfast, and snacks.
El Cafetero tried and tested good coffee (cappuccino) and food, such as a hipster café.
ALVICA – Paraguayan coffee roasters. I’m unsure if there’s a café here or if they sell packaged coffee. Need to find out before going there. 🙂
Mary Coffee is perhaps the closest café to Hotel Five, and it offers decent coffee. They were closed when we arrived, but from the pictures, it seems they can make a good cappuccino.
La Cafebreria, also close to Hotel Five, is a vast café with a live art performance almost every night – theatre, singing, and piano playing. They’re pretty international. You’ll find several rooms, and each one has a different theme. For example, you can play comics and games on one of them. They have a lovely staff. It was here (not knowing it would be an insulin bomb) that I tried a malteada and ate it with a sweet croissant.
El Café de Aca is great for breakfast or brunch and also for maté and the cold version of maté —tereré, a Paraguayan specialty. I definitely recommend trying it here. However, they don’t have good coffee here.
Black & Go is a small place for coffee to go. I had high hopes for it because of its hipster name, but in the end, they didn’t even have the coffee machine on for half an hour after opening. 🙂 Anyway, I’m putting it here; maybe someone will find it helpful.
Temperance Coffee and Tea is also near Hotel Five. I didn’t get a chance to try it, but judging by the photos, it could be decent.
Vegan stuff in Asuncion
Eco Tienda + Vegan Restaurant is for Vegan food lovers or for those who want to buy eco-organic raw food.
Alma Zen – a vegan restaurant.
If you’re looking for specialty foods that the Biggie chain doesn’t have, I’d recommend trying La Marchante. They have two stores: goo.gl/maps/mr9fmwAVf4zYCDYa7 and goo.gl/maps/MFkKMpVakqzETGq48.
For beer fans in Asuncion
The Walking Beer is an artisanal Paraguayan beer sold worldwide through several branches.
Disco in Asuncion
Paseo Carmelitas – of course, one must consider COVID and other restrictions.
Where can you buy bombillas and glasses for Tereré and Maté?
Maté and tereré are big in Paraguay. Almost everyone walks down the street with a thermos of water and a glass with a straw. Taxi drivers have a thermos of water and a glass strapped to the passenger seat, and the average Paraguayan can’t imagine a day without a tereré.
You can taste the tereré at Café del Aca, for example.
We decided to bring our tereré and maté experiences with us to Slovakia. Who would also like to buy maté/terré glasses and straws (bombilla), there are three shops in a row on this street.
- https://g.page/indioparaguay?share
- https://goo.gl/maps/XzEjw5HiaGmdYrWi6
- https://goo.gl/maps/tR8juRM4HtyzEPrG9
I liked the merchandise best at the second one, la bombilla py. The prices varied – they sold “tourist” cheap versions, suitable quality cups, and bombillas for actual use. The more expensive bombille ones cost around 15€ – 20€, and for the cups, it depended on the type.
As for the yerba maté you use to make the terrera (or hot version of maté), many brands are available in Europe. We bought ours in Paraguay to try their local brand. There are several of them; we got a tip on Kurupí. You can find it in blends with different herbs in supermarkets (e.g., Biggie).
Shopping malls in Asuncion
You can use the malls not only for the usual things (shopping for clothes, etc.) but also to buy a Paraguayan SIM card.
- Mariscal
- Shopping Villa Morra
- Shopping Del Sol
- Mercado 4 – classical local market
Salsa, bachata dance schools
If you want to make your stay more enjoyable with salsa or bachata classes, there are several dance schools in Asunción:
- Salsa Soul Studio: https://goo.gl/maps/n1hgYcDfX6Azr9zc6
- Xpyrience Dance: https://goo.gl/maps/7ykctCfZ2hNV7MoM9
- Art District (tu majú aj hiphop, contemporary): https://www.instagram.com/artdistrict.py/
- Ma Ochun: https://goo.gl/maps/PNmshnT151hrhEgL9
Food and coffee delivery service in Asuncion
Bolt Food or Wolt don’t work in Asuncion, but the Pedidosya website/app does. You can order food, coffee, or groceries there. I used it to order an excellent filter coffee from Kaffetario, which I didn’t feel like walking the 2.5km from my hotel to. You pay in cash.
Taxis in Asuncion
Both Bolt and UBER work. We paid both in cash in Guarani. The prices are ultra-low.
SPA v Asunción
For spa and massage lovers, we have a tip for Calle 11 SPA within the community. Check out the massage and spa offer here: www.calle11.net/. Book via WhatsApp; the number is on the website. They are not open on Sundays.
Design shops in Asunción
I was extremely surprised by how many design shops I saw in Asunción. It’s clothing, lingerie, and interior design. Design shops are scattered throughout the city, but you can find more on Senador Huey Pierce Long Street.
Celia, our local liaison, recommended this designer to me. There were some really nice creative pieces there. However, you have to reckon that you have to pay for originality and design—the dresses cost from 300€ upwards.
Many brands operate online on Instagram, like this one. However, I haven’t been able to find them very often.
Another engaging brand I found is for underwear – Paraguayan lingerie brand www.kalua.com.py/locales.
Interesting facts and tips that may come handy
- For those who would like to bring local cigarettes from Paraguay for tasting (like our friends), Palermo is a local brand. You can also find them in all supermarkets.
- The ubiquitous rose trees in Asunción are called Pau d’arco, and the bark of these trees is used to make Lapacho, the famous herbal tea.
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